Church of St. Mary of the Mongols (Kanlı Kilise)
Nestled in the heart of Istanbul’s historic district, the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols (Kanlı Kilise) is a lesser-known but highly significant monument with a unique history and rich cultural heritage. Despite being overshadowed by more famous landmarks like the Hagia Sophia or the Blue Mosque, this Byzantine-era church offers an intriguing glimpse into the complex religious and cultural tapestry of Istanbul. With its historical connections to both the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires, as well as its role as an important place of worship, St. Mary of the Mongols stands as a testament to Istanbul’s diverse spiritual legacy.
In this article, we will delve into the history, architecture, significance, and visitor experience of the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols, providing a comprehensive guide for those who wish to explore this hidden gem of Istanbul.
Introduction to the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols
The Church of St. Mary of the Mongols, also known as Kanlı Kilise (which means “Bloody Church”), is a Greek Orthodox church located in the Fatih district of Istanbul. It is one of the few Byzantine churches in the city that has remained in continuous use as a place of worship, even after the conquest of Constantinople by the Ottoman Empire in 1453.
Unlike many other Christian churches that were converted into mosques during the Ottoman period, St. Mary of the Mongols has managed to retain its Christian identity, making it a rare example of Byzantine Christianity that has survived through the centuries. The church’s fascinating history and its association with the Mongols, as well as its role in Istanbul’s religious life, make it a captivating place to visit.
History of the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols
Byzantine Origins and Early History
The Church of St. Mary of the Mongols dates back to the Byzantine period, with its foundations believed to have been laid in the 9th century. The church is thought to have originally been a private chapel, built to serve the needs of the local Greek Orthodox community. It is believed that the church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, reflecting the strong Christian traditions that dominated the Byzantine Empire.
The name “St. Mary of the Mongols” comes from the church’s association with the Mongol rulers who played a significant role in its history. In the 13th century, when the Mongols were establishing their dominance in the region, the church was given its name due to a connection with the Mongol Empire and its khans, who had taken an interest in the church and its community.
The Church Under Ottoman Rule
Following the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, many Christian churches in the city were converted into mosques. However, the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols managed to avoid this fate. Instead, it remained under the protection of the Ottoman Empire, which allowed it to continue as a place of worship for the Greek Orthodox community.
The church’s continued use as a Christian church during the Ottoman period is unique and reflects the Ottoman policy of tolerance towards non-Muslim communities. In fact, the church became an important spiritual center for the local Greek Orthodox population, especially during the reign of Sultan Mehmed II, who provided the church with privileges and protection.
The Significance of “Kanlı Kilise” (The Bloody Church)
The church’s nickname, “Kanlı Kilise” (which translates to “Bloody Church”), is shrouded in mystery. Various theories exist regarding the origin of this name. Some scholars believe it may refer to a bloody event that occurred within the church’s walls, while others suggest it could be connected to the church’s long history of political and religious upheaval. Regardless of the precise origin of the name, the church’s history is undoubtedly marked by struggles and challenges, including its survival through the turbulent times of Ottoman rule.
The church’s resilience throughout these periods of change makes it an enduring symbol of the perseverance of the Greek Orthodox community in Istanbul.
Architectural Features of the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols
The architecture of St. Mary of the Mongols reflects the Byzantine style that was prevalent during the church’s early years. However, over the centuries, the church has undergone various modifications and renovations, resulting in a mix of Byzantine and Ottoman influences.
The Exterior: A Modest Yet Elegant Structure
The Church of St. Mary of the Mongols may not stand out as dramatically as some of Istanbul’s more famous churches, but it has a certain understated elegance. The exterior of the church is relatively simple, with a rectangular structure and a domed roof typical of Byzantine churches. The walls are made of stone, with some parts of the church showing signs of wear from centuries of exposure to the elements.
The entrance to the church is modest, with an arched doorway that leads into a small atrium. The building’s exterior is surrounded by a small courtyard, where visitors can pause and reflect before entering the church itself.
The Interior: A Blend of Byzantine and Ottoman Elements
Inside, the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols is much more impressive, featuring a mix of Byzantine and Ottoman architectural elements. The most striking feature of the interior is the large central dome, which is supported by four massive columns. This dome is typical of Byzantine architecture, creating a sense of grandeur and spaciousness within the church.
The walls and ceiling of the church are adorned with religious icons and frescoes, many of which depict scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary. These vibrant works of art are a testament to the church’s Byzantine heritage, though some of the paintings have been overpainted or damaged over the centuries.
In contrast to the Byzantine-style icons, the church also features Ottoman influences, particularly in the form of intricate tile work and Arabic calligraphy. The presence of these elements reflects the church’s ability to maintain its Christian identity while also being influenced by the Islamic culture that surrounded it during the Ottoman period.
The Iconostasis and the Altar
One of the most important features of any Orthodox church is the iconostasis, a screen of icons that separates the nave from the sanctuary. In St. Mary of the Mongols, the iconostasis is richly decorated with religious icons that depict the Virgin Mary, Christ, and various saints. These icons are carefully arranged in a way that follows the traditional Eastern Orthodox liturgical order.
The altar of the church is also adorned with religious symbols, including a large crucifix. The altar area is more modest than some of Istanbul’s other churches, but it retains a sense of solemnity and reverence that is characteristic of Orthodox worship.
Visiting the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols
Location and Accessibility
The Church of St. Mary of the Mongols is located in the Fatih district of Istanbul, not far from the city’s main tourist attractions. It is situated within walking distance from the famous Grand Bazaar and is easily accessible by public transportation. Visitors can reach the church by taking the tram to the Beyazit stop or by using the metro.
Opening Hours and Admission
The church is open to visitors throughout the week, though it is primarily a place of worship, so it is important to respect the times of religious services. It is advised to check the opening hours in advance to ensure that the church is open for tourists. There is no admission fee to visit the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols, though donations are always appreciated.
Religious Services
The Church of St. Mary of the Mongols continues to hold regular Greek Orthodox services, and visitors are welcome to attend these services. For those wishing to attend a service, it is important to observe proper etiquette and dress modestly. As with many Orthodox churches, the services are conducted in Greek, so visitors should be prepared for a different cultural and liturgical experience.
Insider Tips for Visiting
- Respectful Behavior: The Church of St. Mary of the Mongols is an active place of worship, so it is important to be respectful of the space and its congregants. Visitors should dress modestly and remain quiet during services.
- Photography: Photography inside the church is generally allowed, but visitors should always ask for permission if unsure, especially during religious services.
- Combine Your Visit: The church is located close to many of Istanbul’s most famous attractions, including the Grand Bazaar, the Blue Mosque, and the Hagia Sophia. Visitors can easily combine a trip to the church with a visit to these other iconic sites.
- Check for Events: Occasionally, the church hosts special religious events, including feasts and celebrations for important Orthodox holidays. These events can provide a unique opportunity to experience the spiritual life of the church.
Conclusion: A Hidden Treasure in Istanbul’s Religious Landscape
The Church of St. Mary of the Mongols (Kanlı Kilise) is a testament to the rich religious and cultural history of Istanbul. Its survival through centuries of change, from the Byzantine Empire to the Ottoman period, speaks to the resilience of the Greek Orthodox community in the city. With its blend of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture, stunning frescoes, and rich history, the church offers a unique opportunity for visitors to experience a different side of Istanbul’s religious heritage.
For those interested in the lesser-known gems of Istanbul, a visit to the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols is highly recommended. Whether you are a history enthusiast, a lover of architecture, or simply seeking a quiet moment of reflection in a city full of history, this church offers a fascinating and peaceful escape.
